Classic luxury brand Louis Vuitton, known for its long history and tradition, began showcasing innovative styles in 2011. Kim Jones, the head designer of Louis Vuitton’s menswear, was at the heart of this transformation. He broke high fashion and street fashion boundaries by collaborating with streetwear brand Supreme.

 

The revamped Louis Vuitton expanded its customer base to include Millennials and Generation Z. Kim Jones demonstrated that even a brand with a long history and tradition could take on a completely new look under different designers.

Chapter 1

The Dawn of Women’s Liberation

 

Gabrielle Chanel, the founder of ‘Chanel,’ aimed to create clothes that allowed women to move more freely and comfortably. She boldly discarded corsets and designed flexible and practical clothing. She drew inspiration from sportswear and menswear (military uniforms) to create new garments, often using lightweight and comfortable materials. 

In the 1920s, Gabrielle Chanel was the first to use tweed fabric in women’s clothing, typically worn by English farmers and shepherds. Although her staff was not initially enthusiastic about her bold attempts, the tweed jacket she created has become an essential item for women even after 100 years. 

At the ‘RSVP: An Invitation to a Grand Legacy’ exhibition currently held at DDP (Dongdaemun Design Plaza), you can see the tweed jacket designed by Gabrielle Chanel and the gold jacket designed by Karl Lagerfeld. Karl Lagerfeld, who served as Chanel’s chief designer for 37 years, revived Chanel’s designs with new materials, ushering in a golden era for the brand. The gold jacket on display reinterprets the Byzantine style that Gabrielle Chanel loved in a modern way. It is the same design as Lady Gaga’s jacket during the New Year’s Eve rehearsal at Times Square in 2011.

Chapter 2

The Man Who Gifted Women Elegance

 

In the post-World War II period, women, who had been crucial to the war effort, mostly wore simple and practical clothes. Christian Dior, the founder of ‘Dior,’ wanted to give these women elegance and luxury again.  

"There is no beauty that is attractive without zest."

Fascinated by the shape of flowers, Dior presented his first collection, the ‘New Look,’ in 1947. The ‘New Look’ maximized femininity with rounded shoulders and a cinched waist, capturing the attention of women seeking new elegance after the war. 

 

Dior also inspired many talented designers in women’s fashion. Pierre Balmain and Hubert de Givenchy, who founded ‘Balmain’ and ‘Givenchy’ respectively, were early members of ‘Dior’. Yves Saint Laurent rose to the position of head designer at Dior and later launched his brand. Dior and many other luxury brands have carried forward Dior’s intention to give women elegance and luxury.

Two ‘New Look’ dresses personally crafted by Christian Dior are also on display at this exhibition. The cinnamon taffeta dress, featuring a subtle sheen and crisp texture, and the ‘New Look’ jacket with its distinctively narrow waist are showcased.

Chapter 3

Discovering Original Collections in Korea

최근, Recently, a unique opportunity has arisen in Korea to see original collections from world-class designers, a rarity in the country. The ‘RSVP: An Invitation to a Grand Legacy’ exhibition is being held for free from May 3 to August 4 at the Yigansumun Exhibition Hall in DDP.

The exhibition features works by designers who left great legacies in the fashion world, including Alexander McQueen, Karl Lagerfeld, and Issey Miyake. It showcases 87 pieces.

Alexander McQueen:
The Fashion Hooligan 

Alexander McQueen was known for his shocking runway antics, like setting fire to the stage or hanging models upside down, earning him the titles of fashion’s rebel and hooligan. Despite his notoriety, he received the Commander of the British Empire (CBE) from the Queen of England. This exhibition features the organza dress from McQueen’s final collection before his death, symbolizing the apocalyptic future world depicted in ‘Plato’s Atlantis.’ 

The exhibition showcases two print dresses from the 2009 S/S collection in addition to the organza dress. McQueen presented print designs using hard materials like metal structures, the Eiffel Tower and crystals.

Paco Rabanne:
The Alchemist of Fashion 

Paco Rabanne enjoyed using unconventional materials like metal, plastic, and paper. He also created jewelry for haute couture houses like Balenciaga, Givenchy, and Nina Ricci. In 1966, he broke fashion market norms by using plastic instead of fabric and a hammer instead of a needle in his ‘12 Unwearable Dresses Made of Contemporary Materials’ collection. His innovative approach led to the term ‘Wearable Art.’ 

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
The Quixote of Fashion and Art 

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, a French fashion designer, combined pop culture and art, using bright, bold colors, striking patterns, and unconventional materials. At 40, inspired by a fortune teller’s claim that he was a bear in a past life, Castelbajac created a jacket by stitching together 40 teddy bears, causing a significant stir in the fashion world. He is recognized for breaking fashion norms. 

The exhibition also features two jackets from Castelbajac’s ‘Pasta’ collection in 1991, made in the shape of various pasta forms, including square-shaped ravioli and wide tagliatelle noodles.

This exhibition showcases works from luxury brands such as Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, and Comme des Garçons, which are familiar even to those uninterested in fashion. Collections created by artists like Andy Warhol and David Hockney are also on display. Why not spend this weekend exploring the world of luxury brand designers with your family or loved ones?

 

 

Exhibition Schedule